Sunday, May 29, 2011

Monday May 16 to Tuesday May 31, 2011

We left The Old Grouch at Atlantic Yacht Basin for about 2 or 3 weeks in order to get some work done on the boat. Monday and Tuesday, I worked on the outside of the boat, washing it down to get rid of the salt and then waxing both the fiberglass and all the railings. Brenda worked on the inside, vacuuming, cleaning up the cupboards etc. A lot of work but the boat is now pretty clean and polished.

On Wednesday we rented a car for two weeks and on Thursday we left for Atlanta to take Brenda to the airport for her trip to Victoria to visit her mother. Why Atlanta? When I was booking the flight, I had no idea where we would be when the time came for her to fly to Victoria - so, I picked Atlanta. It was not a bad drive and we broke it into two days so there was no rush.

Brenda got on her flight around 7:00 am on Saturday after getting up at around 4:15 to get ready. We stayed in a hotel close to the airport so we caught the shuttle over to the airport. After getting Brenda off, I returned to the hotel and went back to bed. When I got up, I started driving back to Virgina. My goal for the week when the boat was being worked on was to visit the Civil War sites in and around Richmond, which I did and had a lot of fun.

Picked Brenda up on Sunday night (29th) at the Atlanta airport. She also had a good time visiting her mother. When she was in Victoria, she tried to contact some old friends of ours only to learn they were on the east coast doing the tourist thing. Anyway, I managed to get hold of them and we met in Myrtle Beach last night for dinner. Great time since we had not seen each other for a few years. We had breakfast in the morning and then said our goodbyes. We then drove to Chesapeake to get on the boat only to learn that it was not in the water. They apparently did not have time to get in the water even though it was finished. AYC paid for our night in the hotel and said it would be ready tomorrow. Actually, as we have to do some shopping, we were not really too upset since it gives a day to do that shopping before we continue the journey.

I think we will skip going up the Potomac to visit Washington. Probably go to Baltimore, rent a car and then go to Washington and then continue up the Chesapeake.

Sunday, May 15, 2011

Sunday - May 15, 2010

Lat 36 20 94; long 75 56 94; Fuel 158 gal; eng 824.30 Coinjock Marina Mile 50

We learned last night that one of the bridges along the way would only open a specific hours on Sunday 8, 12 and 4. We could not make the 8, as the bridge was about 40 miles away, so we left at 7:30 in order to make the 12. The entire run was pretty good until we got into a 25 boat line-up for the bridge opening. It was a unique experience looking down the river at the line up, slowly moving down the river towards the bridge. People got a little testy because of the line-up, telling people to get closer to the boat ahead of them, trying to pass etc. Fact was, it was impossible to go anywhere until the bridge opened. Dumb! Sometimes, I wonder if people have ever taken a boating course particularly about the rules of the road and courtesy.

Anyway we finally made it and pulled into Atlantic Yacht Basin. We are going to leave the boat here until the 31st in order to get some maintenance work done. Over the next couple of days we will clean up the boat and wash and wax the decks. On Wednesday, we will be driving to Atlanta so Brenda can catch a flight to Victoria to see her mother and Laura as she will be out in BC for a conference. I will jsut travel around Virginia and play golf and visit Civil War sites.

Our friends from Rambler will be moving on tomorrow, so we got together for a drink tonight.

Saturday - May 14, 2011


Lat 35 31 00; long 76 32 11; Fuel 186 gal; eng 815.09; Dowry Creek Marina; mile 135

The first thing I did this morning was check the weather report as we were gong to cross Abermarle Sound which could be about 20 miles pf pure hell if the weather was rough. Fortunately, the report looked good - 10-15 knt winds and seas of 1 to 2 feet coming from the south. As the run up Abermarle was almost direct north, it should be OK So Rambler and ourselves set out at 7 since it would be another long day as we were going Coinjock, North Carolina which is famous for its roast beef dinners.

The first stage was through the Alligator River a long stretch of water across the top of North Carolina. Not much to see other than more Osprey nests and the banks of the river. the nest stage was at Abermarle Sound. Now in North Carolina, the winds are very quiet in the morning and build up over the afternoon. We got into the Sound when it was not too bad. As we ran across, it seemed the winds were a little bit bigger than projected and the waves were not coming directly form the south but were hitting us somewhat on the beam and a some were a little bigger than projected. It was a rough ride but nothing compared to Lake Michigan last summer. About 3/4 of the way across, the sensor indicated that I had water in fuel. A strong whistle eminated from my engine sensor and it wouldn't shut off. I couldn't go down to the engine room to switch the fuel filter as the seas were too rough so we had to live with it until we got into quieter water.

When we finally got to Coinjock we went for that prime roast beef dinner - 34 oz which Brenda and I shared. Now we did not really eat that much as the piece of roast beef had a lot of fat and bone, but the meat was absolutely superb.

Friday - May 13, 2011

Lat 34 43 29; long 76 42 27; Fuel 202 gal; eng 807.15, Morehead City Yacht Basin; mile 204

We decided to travel with Rambler since they were going to the same place we were - Atlantic Yacht Basin and in the same time frame. We departed Morehead City at around 8:30 for the long run (80 miles) to Dowry Creek Marina in North Carolina at mile 135 of the ICW. It 4mjwas a pretty straight run up Adams Creek into the Pamlico River and then out inot open water for the run up the River to the Pungo River. In my mind these are not really rivers but openings to the ocean as they are in places several miles wide. Eventually, we arrived at Dowery Creek Marina which is set off from the city of Belhaven by a couple of miles. It is an isolated but really nice marina. They have social for all the visiting boaters each night at 5:30. Everyone chips in some food and brings what they want to drink. We finally ran into ocean Breeze again. They were traveling to Norfolk and we last saw them in Marathon before we left for a week in April. Met a few other new folks but most of them were not doing the loop.

Thursday - May 12, 2011

Lat 34 13 38; Long 77 48 40; Fuel 156 gal; eng 797.00 hrs; Wrightsville Beach Marina; ICW mile 283.1

Wrightsville Beach Marina is right beside the next bridge so when it opened at 8:00 am, we just pulled away from the dock and into the ICW. A lot of boats were floating around waiting for it to open and we just timed our departure when it opened. Compared to yesterdays travel, the trip today was quiet quiet, but lots of nesting Ospreys with their nests sitting atop the markers. The route was pretty straight away.








Passed through the Camp Lajeunne Firing Range at mile 235. This is an area that is closed off when the warning lights are flashing as you enter the range. Reason being, they use live ammunition to blast the tanks and trucks on the side of the river when they are practicing. Luckily for us the range was not operating when we entered because it has been known that the waterway was closed to travel for up to 4 hours.

There are a lot of ugly houses along the ICW but I personally think this takes the prize.





We are still traveling east which seems funny until you look at the map of North Carolina and it does extend out quite a ways as does the ICW. Our planned stop was Morehead City. It took us a bit of time to find the Morehead City Yacht Basin but we did finally get there where we picked up fuel and got a pumpout. Shortly after we arrived, Rambler pulled in to the same marina. They had left at 7:30 in the mornign but were a ways behind us so they caught the 9 bridge opening at Wrightsville and booted it from there to reach Morehead City. Good marina and a nice place with a great restaurant close by - Floyd's 1921 Restaurant.

We also heard from our Canadian friends on Spring Moon the 26 ft sailing vessel that we first met on the Illinois River. We passed them several times on the Tennessee River and Tenn-Tom waterway, but lost track of them after that. We did hear that they had been at some of the marinas we stayed at but never heard from them until today. They contacted us on the radio and phoned us later that night. It was good to catch up a bit. However they were staying at a marina in Beaufort which was across the waterway from Morehead City Yacht Basin.

Later that night, we heard a knock on our door and who was there but a fellow who we last saw at the Fort Myers turnoff which leads across Florida. This was his home marina and he recognized our boat and came over the say hello. He was working on the boat, replacing stuff. We had a nice chat about what has happened since we last met.

Wednesday, May 11, 2011

Wednesday - May 11, 2004

lat 33 48 08; long 78 44 70 Barefoot Marina, Myrtle Beach, SC, Fuel 169 gal; eng 788.36

We left the marina today at around 8 with Rambler. Went through the Rock Pile - a stretch of the ICW that is noted for its rocky shores. There are lots of negative comments about the Rock Pile but after boating in Georgian Bay, it is not really that much of an issue other than it is narrow in some places but not as narrow as those in some of the passages in the Bay.

Saw evidence of hurricane damage and there were a number of boats just abandoned on shore.





Saw a beautiful hawk swooping over the ICW looking for fish. Lots of deep water. Passed into North Carolina where again I will have to report into customs.Interesting thing was until we reached Southport we were traveling east rather than north for most of the day. A look at the map confirms the compass direction. The water was smooth and easy until we rounded the turn into Cape Fear inlet at Southport. The wind was blowing from the west and churning up waves of 4 to 5 feet. For a while ii was a rocky ride until we went a little further up the channel. Actually it was a good thing the water was rough. For most of the morning I used auto pilot to steer the boat. Couldn't do that when we made the turn. I had to steer the boat.

Rambler pulled off to another marina about 4 miles before our stop, so we said goodbye with hopes that we would meet them again along the route.

Pulled into Wrightville Beach Marina after 80 miles of travel. First thing we did was a laundry.

Tuesday, May 10, 2011

Tuesday - May 10, 2011

When we left Charleston, we forgot to pick up our 5 amp adapter from the dock, so we decided to rent a car and drive back to pick it up. The trip that took 2 days by boat was an hour and a half by car. Of course we saw a lot more on the water. We got the adapter and then saw our friends on Lady Royal, who had engine problems. Turns out their engine cooling system sprang a leak and they have to get it repaired. Could take several days. Anyways we had a nice little visit and then drove back to Myrtle Beach. When we got back a huge thunder storm with hail was just starting and the hail stones were about an inch in diameter. You can see from the attached picture the stones hitting the water.







Tomorrow we have to start moving early in order to get to the end of the waterway by the 16th so I can drive Brenda to the airport to visit her mother. We have some 365 miles to go in 5 days, so we have to move.

Monday - May 9, 2011

Osprey at the nest


















Lat 33 21 88; long 79 16 93; Fuel 182 gal; eng 781.54

We left Georgetown around 8:30 on a beautiful sunny morning. hard to see as we were moving into the sunlight. We entered into the Waccamare River and it was very pretty with lots of trees on either side. Many of the markers had osprey nests on top of them with young in the nests. Depths along this stretch were very good as most of the water was greater than 20 feet.


Our goal today was to reach Myrtle Beach and tie up to the Barefoot Landing. As we got closer to Myrtle Beach, it was obvious that there was some ecomomic problems as a lot of houses and lots were empty or houses were unfinished. However on the other side there were a lot of very ugly houses (in my opinion that were finished and were very ostentatious. Don't ask me who lives in them and why they need them so big. Not only were the houses not pretty but the landscaping left something to be desired.

Uncompleted House





Look at the size of this monstrosity!






After tying up we went to dinner at the Blues Brothers and had a great dinner. No live music which was disappointing but there was music.

Monday, May 9, 2011

Sunday - May 8, 2011

Fountain in Georgetown




Looking down the street in Georgetown - not very busy







Lat 32 46 72; long 79 57 23; fuel 203 gal; eng 773.33



We left Charleston by ourselves today. The past days traveling companions decided to stay another day and Lady Royal had to get her engine problems fixed. We moved out Charleston harbor and turned to port at market #2 to re-enter the watereway. The trip was relatively smooth with a skinny spot around McClellandsville. We were going through at close to high tide so no problem but could have been if at low tide. We arrived at Georgetown at around 4 and tied up at the local city marina which was right downtown. Unfortunately, as it was Sunday, nothing was open other than a couple of bars even though it was mother's day. In fact there were very few people around at all. We dropped into a local bar for a beer and an iced tea ( I had the beer) as it was very hot. We then went for a walk down the street, but as I said, nothing was open, so we finally went back to the boat and had dinner on board. Actually, I think Georgetown has seen better days since many of the stores were empty. There was a paper mill operating (you could tell by the smell) but not much other industry.

I cooked a mother's day dinner for Brenda and since each of the kids phoned during the day, she was happy.

Saturday, May 7, 2011

Thursday - May 5, 2011

Lat 31 58 75; long 81 03 35; Fuel 146 gal; Eng 757 hrs

Left Savannah with Lady Royal this morning at around 7:15 am in order to catch the rising tides. Isle of Hope marina is a really nice marina and Savannah a great city. There were a few bad spots along the way to Beaufort (pronounced Bufort): crossing the Savanna River at Field Cut and then later on at Wright River. However, the key is to go over them on a flood tide so that if you do get stuck, eventually you float off the mud, especially with an 8 foot change between low and high tide. As we were passing Hilton Head Island, we heard of a couple of other Loopers heading out of Jarvis Creek - Bade Boomer and Rambler (42 foot Nordic which we saw in Green Turtle Bay up on the Cumberland River in Kentucky). We fell in behind them and followed them all the way to Beaufort. This was a bit of a homecoming for Lady Royal since they had traveled to the Bahamas with Rambler and Bade Boomer (and also Q's End and Finally. So went out to dinner with all of them at a great restaurant in Beaufort called Emilie's. Turns out the captain of Rambler who now lives in the US is a Canadian who played hockey for the Oshawa Generals in the mid 60's. Spent a bit of time reminiscing about the old time players from those teams and the Niagara Falls Flyers as they were all Boston Bruins property. We both agreed that Orr was the best player of all time. Lots of Fun.

As soon as I got to Beaufort, I faxed my cruising permit back to Customs and Border people in Savannah who were trying to trace my Cruising Permit Number from Drummond.



The group having dinner at Emilie's


Beaufort is not a large town, but like many towns along this stretch of the ICW has a history that mixes English, Spanish and French ownership over the years. Since we were going to leave tomorrow morning, we did not spend a lot of time walking around.



Downtown Beaufort

Saturday - May 7, 2011

Got a phone call this morning from Customs, and after discussions with Savannah, I had to go and reapply for the Cruising Permit at 2:00.

In the meantime we and our friends from Lady Royal went for a guided walk around Charleston with Sue Bennet who is a certified guide. The walk took 3 hours all around the old part of Charleston and we learned that this City is a older than Savannah. Many many old houses dating from he 1700's still in existence and they are doing everything they can to preserve and restore them. It was a great talk and walk. Some of the houses are really magnificent with beautiful gardens. There are also a number of ladies who maintain the art of basket weaving from grass. Apparently, once these ladies pass away, the art will be lost because no one is learning it now.












Lady making baskets and that is Sue and Ed (another walking guide) in front - both are excellent guides if you get to Charleston






One of the things I learned is there a Middleton that was a signer of the Declaration of Independence and also a Middleton was a signer of the secession document. South Carolina was the first state to secede from the Union.

After our walk we caught a cab out to the Customs office (a ways out) and had a meeting where we got a new cruising permit with a real number. We were told we only had to phone in with our number at each new state along the route. We were also told the boat had to leave the US by August 31 for 15 days, after which we could get another cruising permit. The customs officer was very nice and helpful but the system could be improved and coordinated a little better with some consistency of information among the various offices.

We then caught a cab back into town and had lunch at an Italian restaurant. Very good. We went for another walk around town in the shopping district. By 4:30 pm we were walked out and we phoned the marina for the shuttle back to the marina. We were dead tired after all the walking we did and we had a little nap before dinner on the boat.

Friday - May 6, 2011

Lat 32 25 79; Long 80 40 51; 204 gal; eng 765.09

All the Loopers left Beaufort this morning at 8:30, again on a rising tide. Our goal was Charleston, SC. Only one really bad spot which we passed over when it was around 8.5 feet under my hull. Not too bad. As we were going along in file, another trawler rushed up beside us with no warning and cut in front of me. His purpose was to get behind his friend who was at that time behind Rambler and Bade Boomer. Got waked by him and we rocked and rolled a bit. However, rather than get excited, we followed them for quite some time notwithstanding that the first two boats in our group were getting a long way ahead. A couple of times I tried to pass by slowly increasing our speed, but they sped up to match and I decided to drop back. So we traveled in a procession with them for about 25 miles or so, until they started slowing down to 5.1 knts. At that time I decided I was going to pass them because at that rate we might never reach Charleston before dark. So I stepped up the speed, as did they. Fortunately, The Old Grouch has the ability to get up to around 15 knts - not that I did that but I did pass them, while they were trying to speed up. We left them behind and moved on.

Started raining quite heavily and this provided a nice fresh water wash for the boat. As we approached Charleston there was a cut that I was unsure was the right path to take, so I slowed down. Once I had determined it was the right entrance, we moved forward and down the channel into Charleston Harbor.

As we were approaching the marina we were talking to marina over 68 to get directions. All of a sudden the tow boats, we passed started talking over us and eliminated any and all of the instructions. I assume they were still upset about our passing them, because they had to know that we were conversing with the marina on 68. Oh well, you run across all types, but sometimes I wish it was mandatory that all boaters take some Power Squadron courses to learn the rules of the road and courtesy. Probably never happen so will have to keep my eyes open and my mouth shut.

When I got in, I phoned Customs and reported in. As I suspected, there were questions about not having a cruising permit number and I told them to phone Savannah.

Thursday, May 5, 2011

Wednesday - May 4, 2011





We went into Savannah again today and just walked around. Visited an old cemetery which was used by Sherman's soldiers after his march from Atlanta to Savannah at the end of the Civil War. Apparently the soldiers caused a lot of damage to the cemetery such that a number of the graves were lost and the markers were just placed along the back wall. The soldiers defaced the markers by changing the dates of birth and death such that some people were recorded as dying before they were born etc.


Waiting to get into Paula Deen's




One of the big stars of Savannah is Paula Deen who rose up from being a bag lady to a having a restaurant in city and who has along with her two sons published dozens of cook books and sells all sorts of stuff under her name. The line-up at her restaurant starts in the early morning for lunch. I had never heard of her before our visit to Savannah.

A lot of the houses in Savannah are very attractive and have very nice gardens. Of course many of the homes in downtown Savannah are of historical importance and date from the late 17 to early 1800's.

We walked by one of the oldest live oak trees in Georgia called the Candler Oak. Reputed to be over 270 years old and it is huge. Live Oaks do not loose their leaves in the fall and each tree has a web of interlocking branches that spread out over a large area. In addition, the branches attract Spanish Moss which hangs on each and every branch. Spanish Moss is home to a small bug called a chigger that bites and leaves red marks. You do not want to touch the Moss. Apparently when Henry Ford built his first Model T he used Spanish Moss for the stuffing in the seats. However, he did not boil it first and as a result anyone who bought his cars developed a red rash from sitting on the seats. At one time it was also used for bed stuffing until they determined that the moss was loaded with bugs.




Tuesday, May 3, 2011

Tuesday - May 3, 2011

We are going to stay at this marina for three nights so we can see the sites of Savannah. The last time I was here was January some 5 or six years ago for a golf weekend. I remember it was cold, in fact one day we had sleet while we played. Didn't see much of the city except for one restaurant on the river which was pretty good.

In any case we caught a cab in this morning with our friends from Lady Royal and took a tour trolley around the city. Stopped at the City Market which really isn't a market but a number of stores. Brenda bought a really nice quilt for the bed in the boat. We then moved on and stopped at the home of the founder of the Girl Scouts (not Guides) in the US. She got the idea from Lord Baden-Powell. The site was voted the most popular visit site in Savannah. I think every girl and women who is or was a girl scout skewed the vote because it was OK but there are a lot better homes that I have seen. We then continued on the tour and stopped at the local park in the center of town, walked around, looked at some more interesting houses from the outside. By then we were hungry so based on a recommendation from other tourists we went to the Old Pink House for lunch - called Old Pink because it is pink in color.

Monday - May 2, 2011

Lat 31 02 72; long 81 25 36; Eng 746.54; Fuel 170 gal

Left Jekyll, on the flood tide in order to get through a couple of areas that are prone to shoaling - Jekyll River and Little Mud River. If we had gone through on the low tide, we would have been pushing mud. Leaving on a flood tide gives us a lot more water under the boat (the tide shift is 8 feet) but also if you do get stuck, the rising tide will eventually raise the boat enough that you can float and move on. Looking forward on the trip north, there will be a few of these areas where we will have to plan our trip through the skinny water.

Lady Royal joined us on leaving and we traveled together. We originally were going to anchor our along the route but we made such good time we arrived at the anchorage way too early to stop. Additionally there were lots of deer flies around and while traveling we kept the boat closed to stop them from getting in. However, the thought of having those deer flies around while we were anchored was not pleasing, so we decided to push on to Savannah the next big city. We traveled about 93 miles and when we arrived we found a pleasant marina about 6 miles outside of Savannah right along the ICW - Isle of Hope. We arrived at around 5:30 and the staff waited for us to come in. They tied us up, and then we had a beer to relax and then went to dinner at local restaurant - Tradewinds. The food was excellent. Tomorrow we will go into Savannah for a tour.

Sunday, May 1, 2011

Sunday - May 1, 2011

Submarine
Lat 30 40 99 Long 81 27 67; eng 743.15; 178 gal

Left Fernandino around 9:00. Little bit of a tough time getting off the dock because we had boats ahead of us and behind us. Finally figured out that the bow should be held and then put a light touch to revers to swing the stern out. Worked fine. Our goal was to anchor around Cumberland Island just in the North Brickhill River.

We moved out and crossed Cumberland Sound heading north. The channel was nice and deep because upstream there there is a US Navy submarine base. We passed by the submarine base and there were a couple of security gunboats cruising around. All of a sudden one of them started coming at me, lights a blazing. They announced on the radio I was going the wrong way and the the ICW was to my right. For a moment I didn't realize they were talking to me, but as the boat got closer I suddenly woke up and immediately turned to my right into the ICW. Don't really want to upset these guys - probably blow you out of the water.

Once I got back on track we headed north into the Cumberland Dividings which is really a split of between the ICW and the south Brickhill River. It has a reputation for being shallow at the junction. Fortunately a really large cruiser passed me as we entered the area so I just followed him. His draft was deeper than mine so I figured if he didn't get stuck,, neither would I. As we were cruising this stretch of the ICW, deer flies kept coming into the boat and I got bit several times. Since our anchorage was going to be in this area, we decided that it would not be a good place to anchor with these flies all around. We decided to continue on Jeckyll Harbour Marina and stay the night there. As we rounded Cumberland Island, we saw one of the things the island is famous for - wild horses. They were on the beach.






When we arrived a Jeckyll Harbor Marina, our new friends from Lady Royal were already there and were with some old friends on Finally who we originally met in Port St Joe on the Florida panhandle in November. Their home port was Jeckyll Harbor Marina. So we went to lunch with all of them and a few others.

Saturday - April 30, 2011

Happy Birthday Lesley! Of course we could only phone Lesley in the afternoon to wish her a Happy Birthday because on the weekends she sleeps in.

Today we went to a local church breakfast in the Fernandino. Great breakfast for $7 - sausages, eggs, pancakes, biscuits and mushroom gravy and corn grits. Delicious. We then went for a walk along the main street where they had hundreds of arts and crafts booths. Some of them were very good and we even bought something which will be shipped back to Canada for us. It will be interesting to see if it arrives. They seemed like trustworthy people. The whole rest of the morning was spent wandering the booths.

Toured a research vessel that does research to improve the shrimp fishery and protect other wildlife from the drag nets specifically sea turtles.

In St Augustine we met a couple of Loopers through Q's End since they traveled with them over to the Bahamas - Lady Royal. Met up again with them in St. Augustine and went out to dinner with them at 8. Interesting dinner at Joe's. We arrived at 8 and finally left at around 9:45. The dinner was delivered over a long period of time - not sure why.